‘King of Cheese’ is the symbol of Italian culture and tradition.
There’s most likely no more beloved and renowned cheese than Parmigiano-Reggiano. After all, one doesn’t get the moniker “King of Cheese” without a high level of splendor. The apex of Italian cheesemaking and a symbol of Italian culture and tradition, the wheels weigh in at about 80 pounds.
They are bursting with complex flavor and crumbly, crystal-studded texture.
Parmigiano-Reggiano’s origins date back to 1254 (as per the earliest records) when Benedictine monks in the Parma-Reggio region of Italy created the first recipe for the majestic wheels. They used cow’s milk from their own fertile land and salt from Salsomaggiore, a small town in northern Italy. Since that time, artisan makers have stayed faithful to the identity and unique natural production of this iconic cheese. It has remained a sought-after commodity, an important trade item, and a culinary treasure.
Italian writer and poet Giovanni Boccaccio referred to the cheese’s delights in the 14th century, and Thomas Jefferson was so taken by it that he imported it for his personal use in the 18th century.
An Italian regional bank called Credito Emiliano has been accepting Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese as collateral for small-business loans since 1953. The bank has almost a half-million wheels stored in its warehouses.
“Parmigiano-Reggiano speaks of heritage, terroir, and tradition, the things I value the most as a chef,” says Michele Casadei Massari, USA brand ambassador for Parmigiano-Reggiano. “Parmigiano-Reggiano’s unparalleled sensorial experience arises from its rich history, ancient craftsmanship, and strict PDO production regulations.”
“I also deeply value the craftsmanship behind each wheel,” adds Massari. “I always think of the producers who put so much love into their craft. It’s very inspiring.”
AN INTRICATE, CONTROLLED PROCESS
The king of cheese is produced only in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua (to the right of the Po River), or Bologna (to the left of the Reno River), with no exceptions.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is made from just three simple ingredients: unpasteurized cow’s milk, salt and calf rennet. About 15% of all Italian milk production goes into the making of the cheese. The regulations about the milk are very strict: cows must be fed on locally grown grass, and they are not permitted to consume any silage or fermented feeds.
To get into the nitty-gritty of the wheels: Parmigiano-Reggiano is a fully matured — at least one year — raw cow’s milk “grana” (grainy) type hard cheese. The graininess is due to the amino acid crystallization within the cheese that becomes more pronounced with age, imparting a fantastic crunch. As proteins break down, fragrant notes of the Mediterranean Sea and the oomph of umami start to shine through.
The one-year-old cheeses demonstrate a lightness and the flavor of the milk. Older cheeses exhibit even more depth and a pronounced salinity. Stravecchio, or “extra-aged” wheels, are matured for between two and three years. And some cheeses are aged for even longer than that — going up to a decade.
Master producers, affineurs (agers) and graders work together to create these carefully regulated wheels. Partially skimmed morning milk and whole evening milk starts its transformation in copper cauldrons, and is formed into giant wheels, weighing in around 75-85 pounds.
After 12 months, each wheel is closely inspected by a master grader from Il Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano. If it adheres to their strict measures of quality, including being tested for distinctive tonal ranges with a hammer (really!), its rind is branded with the consortium’s famous insignia, and it is ready to be enjoyed around the world.
For Massari, the beauty of Parmigiano-Reggiano is manifold: “The bond between Parmigiano-Reggiano and its area of origin is fundamental; the terroir of Emilia-Romagna enhances the cheese’s distinctive flavor,” he says. “The passion of cheesemakers and their unique talent in preserving traditional techniques have ensured the continuation of the art of Parmigiano-Reggiano for over 1,000 years.”
WHAT ABOUT PARMESAN?
Parmesan is the English translation of the Italian word Parmigiano-Reggiano, but it’s also a telltale sign that you’re about to encounter a Parmigiano-Reggiano-inspired cheese that is not the real deal. Since Parmigiano-Reggiano was officially declared as a DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) product of Italy back in 1955, and by the EU in 1996, it must be approved by the aforementioned Consorzio. The anointed wheels are affixed with a unique dotted writing of “Parmigiano-Reggiano” along the entire side of the rind.
The designation DOP (Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta) is a trademark of the European Parliament. This is the most rigorous and prestigious trademark granted by the European Union for agricultural products. It has been tested by a panel of experts and numbered for traceability — a guarantee that the product is of the highest quality.
“To spot Parmigiano-Reggiano easily in the stores, check that the product you are buying is actually called ‘Parmigiano-Reggiano,’ with no alternatives,” says Massari. “A second clue to spot is the logo of the Parmigiano-Reggiano Consortium, which must be present on any pre-packaged product (so, anything that is not cut in-store).” The third telltale sign is that trademark dotted writing on the rind.
“Hard, cow’s milk cheeses made in the U.S., which are often Italian-sounding, are not subject to the strict aging requirements, regulations, and quality standards of Parmigiano-Reggiano,” explains Massari.
A VERSATILE BURST OF FLAVOR
Parmigiano-Reggiano is nothing if not bold. It has a rich, savory punch, delivering plenty of umami, and just a hint of sweetness on the finish. If you close your eyes, you might taste tropical fruits like pineapple, dark cherries, roasted almonds, a pot of chicken broth bubbling on the stove, and fresh wildflowers. No two wheels are exactly alike.
Its complexity and vigor make it a great friend of chefs. “During summers as a child in Emilia-Romagna, I’d pair Parmigiano-Reggiano with cantaloupe,” Massari remembers. “I have fond memories of this pairing during hot summer days. This combination offers a classic and refreshing contrast, the cheese’s saltiness with the melon’s sweetness — it’s very nostalgic to me.”
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a staple in kitchens around the world — both foodie home cooks to Michelin-starred restaurants recognize its deliciousness and its possibilities. It can be the star of the show in a simple pasta dish or in a classic risotto. Parmigiano-Reggiano adds a salty zing and a nuanced depth when grated or shaved over soup or salad — like with figs and arugula, or in a summertime panzanella with onions and tomatoes. With ribbons of prosciutto, it makes an elegant appetizer. My mom always recommended I save my rinds to add to a soup or a stew and let simmer — they impart a robust profundity.
It’s not just an ingredient, either. A chunk of the cheese flakes easily when broken with the sharp-pointed almond knife traditionally used to serve the cheese, and these chunks are perfect additions to any cheese or charcuterie board. It’s surprisingly versatile when it comes to wine pairings, too. Lambrusco, the sparkling red wine of the Parmigiano-Reggiano region, cuts through the cheese’s richness and stands up to its big flavors. Crisp, but richer, whites like Pinot Grigio or an unoaked Chardonnay are excellent picks, as are dry reds with plenty of fruit, like Barbera and Gamay. An Aperol spritz or a refreshing amber ale also play beautifully with the cheese.
Massari “recently tried a 90-month-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, and it was amazing — quite an experience,” he says. “It offered such complexity that it inspired me to create an Espresso Martini around it, allowing me to showcase all the aromas, flavors, and meditative accents that only this cheese can offer.”
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Parmigiano-Reggiano Espresso Martini
By Chef Michele Casadei Massari
Ingredients:
4 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano-infused vodka
50 ml freshly brewed double espresso coffee (or instant espresso powder)
50 ml coffee liqueur
4 shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano leaves
1 blood orange peel
Directions:
- Vodka Infusion: Combine 4 oz vodka, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, aged 24 months or older (2 tbsp), freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (2 tsp), and the blood orange peel in a glass jar. Tip: wash the rind very well before grating it. Shake vigorously and refrigerate overnight. Strain using a cheesecloth or fine colander.
- Prepare the Espresso Martini: In a cocktail shaker with ice, mix 4 oz of the Parmigiano-Reggiano-infused vodka, 50 ml espresso coffee, and 50 ml coffee liqueur. Shake well and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano and a twist of blood orange peel.
