Feta brings a lively energy to the table.
Feta packs a punch like nothing else. Its dimensions of tang and richness, tartness and brightness, lend a depth of flavor to anything and everything it touches.
It represents a tradition of family and friends, getting together, and sharing the good life,” says Quentin Wright-McDuffie the Import Manager at Schuman Cheese, the parent company of DODONI feta.
DODONI Feta is Greek, where the story of feta began. (Although some evidence suggests it might have been in other ancient civilizations, including the Romans and the Byzantines.) Only 2% of feta consumed in the U.S. hails from Greece. The rest is made in Bulgaria, Denmark, even the U.S. There’s nothing wrong with these global takes on a Mediterranean original. They’re often briny, yummy and satisfying.
Greek feta gets the designation of being the archetypical version. “We make the best feta in the world and are the No. 1 feta brand in the U.S.,” says Wright-McDuffie. “Because it’s PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), it allows us to say it’s made with the right, traditional process, exactly how it should be done.”
Across the Atlantic in Wisconsin, Odyssey crafts award-winning feta. It starts with a Greek recipe but uses all-American milk. “Our quality and uncompromising standard for great feta, and a nice balance of flavor that appeals to the masses, uses local Wisconsin cows’ milk,” says Adam Buholzer, vice president of production, Master Cheesemaker, and fourth generation Odyssey feta guru.
CENTURIES OF TRADITION
The name “feta” comes from the Italian word fetta, meaning “slice,” referring to how the cheese was traditionally cut. Feta cheese is made from sheep’s milk or a combination of sheep and goat’s milk, which imparts its distinctive tangy flavor and crumbly-meets-creamy texture. It’s typically aged and stored in brine, which helps preserve the cheese and infuse the flavor with layers of depth.
The history of feta cheese in ancient times is intertwined with the mythology and daily life of ancient Greek culture. In Homer’s The Odyssey, the famous Greek hero Odysseus and his men land on an island that is inhabited by Cyclopes, the one-eyed giants.
According to the myth, the Cyclops Polyphemus is a shepherd who lives on the island and has a herd of sheep. From their milk, he makes feta. Though Homer doesn’t specifically call the cheese “feta,” the description of how it is made — curdling milk, draining, and aging it in baskets — is remarkably similar to the method used to make feta today.
The Byzantines, who inherited Greek culinary traditions after the fall of the Roman Empire, were instrumental in preserving and expanding cheese-making practices, including the methods that evolved into feta.
The word “feta” itself begins to appear in historical records much later, likely during the Middle Ages. By the 14th and 15th centuries, it’s believed that the cheese we now call feta began to be made specifically in the Greek regions of Thessaloniki, Peloponnese and Crete. During this period, there was a strong emphasis on preserving food through salting and brining due to the limited refrigeration options.
The cheesemaker controls the recipe for the brine, what kind and how much salt is used, and how often the brine is changed. This, too, has an impact on the flavor of the final product. The brine must be changed often so the feta does not sit in its own whey, as salt pulls the whey out of the cheese.
At this time, feta cheesemaking methods started to solidify, involving the curdling of sheep’s milk (and sometimes goat’s milk), followed by pressing and aging in brine for preservation. This process of using brine, which is salty water, is one of the key characteristics of feta, helping give a one-of-a-kind flavor and crumbly texture.
PROTECTED NAME, PROCESS AND PLACE
The cheese’s popularity spread over time, especially after World War II, and today it’s enjoyed worldwide. Feta is a quintessential part of life in Greece — the average Greek person consumes about 50 pounds each year, and 70% of the cheese Greeks eat is feta.
After 16 years of court battles with Germany and Denmark, who make their own cheese that they wanted to be able to call feta, feta cheese received its PDO status from the European Union in 2002. The designation solidified feta’s identity as a uniquely Greek product.
The label ensures that only cheese made in specific regions of Greece, and according to strict guidelines, can be legally labeled as “feta.” Other countries were given five years to rename their cheeses or to stop production.
To receive the PDO, feta can be made in one of seven regions: specific prefectures on the mainland and the islands of the Peloponnese, Thessalia, Epirus, Macedonia, Thrace and Lesbos. Feta is produced from breeds of sheep and goat traditionally grown and fed in these areas, and whose diet is based on its natural flora. PDO feta must be made with mostly sheep’s milk — some goat’s milk is permitted — rennet and salt.
Feta is matured for at least 60 days, and cannot contain antibiotics, preservatives, additives and or food coloring. (Cow’s milk “feta” is often dyed to create the natural white color of sheep and goat’s milk cheese.) Sometimes called “white gold,” it is one of Greece’s most important exports.
“For over 60 years, we’ve been crafting authentic, PDO-certified Feta cheese using 100% fresh sheep’s milk from local Epirus farmers in Western Greece,” says Vasilis Vrohidis, export director at DODONI. “Its creamy texture, rich aroma, and perfectly balanced tangy-salty flavor make it a staple on tables worldwide. More than just cheese, Dodoni Feta represents a tradition of quality, passion, and the simple joy of sharing good food with loved ones. Because to us, the good life is best when shared.”
DISTINCTIVE YET VERSATILE
Feta is more than just a salad topping. “It has a slightly salty and tangy taste to it, but is lower in fat than some other cheeses,” says Buholzer. “It only takes a small amount to achieve a flavorful dish.”
hile its iconic presence in a classic Greek salad has earned it a place in the hearts of food lovers worldwide, feta has much more to offer. Its unique balance of brininess, tang, and lusciousness opens a world of culinary possibilities.
In savory dishes, it imparts a satisfying richness without overwhelming. It can be crumbled over roasted vegetables, stirred into pasta for a creamy finish, or melted into a warm dip that makes everyone gather around the table. The sheer versatility of feta lies in its ability to transform a dish, adding both depth and brightness.
It’s also delicious without much fuss at all. Buholzer enjoys his “straight up with olive oil,” he says, although he also recommends Odyssey feta “sprinkled on pizzas and used in scrambled eggs and salads.”
In traditional Greek cuisine, feta is often baked into spanakopita, the flaky spinach and feta pie wrapped in layers of golden, crisp phyllo dough.
Feta also makes an appearance in börek, a savory pastry found in regions across the Balkans, where its salty tang plays off other fillings, like herbs, olives or minced meat.
Yet the culinary possibilities for feta don’t end in tradition. Its assertive flavor lends itself beautifully to unexpected pairings and daring combinations. Consider crumbling it into a bowl of watermelon and mint salad, where its saltiness contrasts with the sweet juiciness of the fruit, creating a refreshing balance.
Or how about grilling it? Grilled feta — brushed with olive oil, herbs, and perhaps a drizzle of honey — is a game-changer. The heat caramelizes the outer edges, while the inside remains soft and creamy, providing a rich, smoky bite … a showstopper.
As for beverages, feta’s salty, bright profile calls for wines that can stand up to its punch without being overwhelmed. Sauvignon Blanc, with its crisp acidity and herbal notes, is a perfect partner, especially when feta is paired with fresh ingredients, like tomatoes or cucumbers.
A light Assyrtiko, Greece’s native white wine, with its citrusy freshness, complements feta’s brininess in a way that transports you straight to the sun-dappled Greek islands. If you prefer red wine, try a Grenache. And for a refreshing nonalcoholic option, try a sparkling lemonade or herb-infused iced tea to cut through the richness while highlighting feta’s natural bite.
In the kitchen, feta is a bit of a chameleon. It’s a cheese that plays well with so many other ingredients, grounding a dish with its characteristic bite while enhancing the flavors around it. Whether in the form of a creamy dressing, a filling for pastries, or a topping for grilled vegetables, feta brings its own lively energy to the table.
It’s a cheese that invites creativity while honoring tradition, giving cooks the freedom to experiment with its tangy, briny magic in every meal.
“It’s a great opportunity for vegetarians to add something with great texture, flavor and protein,” says Wright-McDuffie. “It gives pizzazz to pretty much everything.”
