The balance of flavors, combined with its adaptability and meltability, make it a cheese that both connoisseurs and casual eaters will love.
Last September, I stepped onto the farm of Le Gruyère AOP milk producer Nicolas Jotterand into what felt like the Sound of Music. We were in the countryside outside of Biere, Switzerland. Jotterand’s farm was perched on a hilltop north of the Alps, in the foothills of Mount Moléson. The hills were alive with regal Holstein cows, whose large bells rang in the gentle breeze as they munched on grass and wild herbs. In every direction, the sun shone generously on bright green hills.
Le Gruyère has been produced since 1115 in and around the region of Gruyères. Legend has it the small, picturesque town is named for grue, a crane that landed on the shoulder of the settlement’s founder. Any cheese can legally be called Gruyere, but to receive the distinguished Le Gruyère AOP designation, the whole process — from milking the cows to crafting the cheese in its traditional copper vats to maturing the wheels on local spruce boards — must happen right here, outside the medieval, picturesque town of Gruyères.
The cheesemaking happens much the same way it has since the 12th century. Each wheel contains the taste of a unique place and a rich history.
The battle for legal protection of the Le Gruyère AOP name in the U.S. has been a complex and hard-fought one. For years, Swiss producers of Le Gruyère AOP struggled to have their cheese’s name recognized as a protected designation of origin (PDO) in the U.S.
The U.S. courts determined that “Gruyere” is a generic term for a type of cheese, not a specific geographical origin, so American producers can use the term “Gruyere” on their products without regulations. American shoppers might find Gruyere made in Wisconsin or New York. For the real deal Swiss original, look for the Le Gruyère AOP seal.
“Gruyère has become the most well-known cheese from Switzerland at this point,” says Isabelle Schilt, Mifroma’s marketing manager. “Looking for the AOP is super important if you want the real Gruyere.”
AN ANCIENT PROCESS IN MODERN TIMES
Le Gruyère AOP requires that a highly skilled team — farmers, cheesemakers, and affineurs — all play an essential role.
The 1992 Charter of Gruyère distinguished the Swiss cantons (regions) of Fribourg and Berne as official producers of Gruyère cheese. The cheese starts with the cows, and the cows for Le Gruyère AOP are postcard-happy cows. They graze on grass during the summer and hay during the winter, with no additives or silage.
Fresh milk from small farms like Jotterand’s travels just a few miles to cheesemakers, twice a day, 365 days a year, who start transforming it into cheese immediately. They use traditional copper vats, prized for their antimicrobial properties and the flavors they impart to the cheese.
I got to watch the sweet, raw milk start on its journey to become Le Gruyère AOP at Mézières Creamery, where the cheesemakers cut the curd with big knives called “cheese harps” (tranche-caillé) and tested the texture by hand. I got to try my own hand at this (don’t worry, I sanitized them first) — the curds felt warm and silky smooth on my skin. The curds then got placed into big round molds that shape the cheese into wheels and head to a salt bath for 24 hours before traveling to the cheesemaker’s cellar where the wheels remain for three months as they begin their aging process.
MATURED TO PERFECTION
After three months, the young wheels are ready for the affineurs, who come to carefully inspect each one, ensuring it meets the rigorous AOP specifications. “We work with dairy farmers and producers who make the cheese according to the highest standards,” Schilt explains.
A journey through the winding roads of the Swiss Alps brings us to the Mifroma cave — a massive space measuring 10,000 square meters. Originally a sandstone quarry that stored potatoes during World War II, it’s now home to 140,000 wheels of cheese, maturing under the expert care of the Maîtres Fromagers.
The Gruyère spends its time aging with the help of robots, which handle the tough task of flipping and rubbing each wheel regularly to guarantee even maturation and rind integrity. These majestic wheels weigh about 70 to 80 pounds each, stretching as far as the eye can see. We walked and walked, and the Gruyère wheels seemed endless.
The natural sandstone of the cave provides the perfect aging environment. Schilt says, “the perfect conditions for aging the wheels occur naturally — it’s amazing how nature works.”
With humidity levels consistently hovering between 95% and 96%, and a steady temperature of around 55°F, the spongy rock and underground setting ensure the conditions are just right. The Maîtres Fromagers tap, taste, smell, and assess every wheel to determine when it’s ready to be shipped, after a minimum of five months — though some wheels age for up to two years.
LE GRUYÈRE D’ALPAGE AOP
Completely handmade by small producers high up in the mountains, Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP is more than just cheese; it’s a testament to tradition and place. Alpage means mountain pasture. Protected by the AOP quality seal, the cheese is crafted exclusively during the summer, when cows graze on the lush, fragrant Alpine pastures.
These pastures, rich with diverse flora, imbue the milk with an unparalleled depth of flavor, making the cheese truly exceptional. What’s more, Le Gruyère Alpage AOP is produced the old-fashioned way, stirred by hand over copper vats heated by woodfire, then pressed exclusively in cloth.
As the crisp days of fall settle in, the Alpine herds begin their descent from the mountains. This annual ritual, known as “désalpe,” marks the end of the high-altitude grazing season. It’s a time of celebration, where the return of the cattle from the summer pastures is honored with local festivals — a joyful recognition of the land’s bounty and the hard work of those who tend it.
Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP is made in only 61 chalets, spread over the cantons of Fribourg, Vaud and Bernese Jura. Each chalet creates unique taste experiences because of its unique terroir — its altitude, its slope, its flora and the personal touch of each cheesemaker. It is this diversity that gives Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP its charm and its deeply expressive flavor.
THINK BEYOND FONDUE
This iconic Swiss cheese, known for its sweet-savory, nutty flavor and delightfully creamy texture, is a culinary powerhouse that shines. It’s a star of a cheese plate, a classic melted into fondue, and amazingly versatile in the kitchen.
When it comes to cheese, few offer the depth and versatility of Le Gruyère AOP. The epitome of artisanal craftsmanship pairs beautifully with a wide range of foods, making it a must-have on any cheese board or in the kitchen.
For a cheese board, Le Gruyère AOP is the perfect centerpiece. Its complexity, with flavors that evolve from sweet and almondy to briny and oniony as it ages, pairs effortlessly with both fresh and dried fruits.
When it comes to wine pairings, Le Gruyère AOP is a dream partner for a variety of choices. For white wine lovers, an oaky Chardonnay with a touch of butteriness complements the cheese’s richness beautifully. Alternatively, a crisp Sauvignon Blanc can cut through the creaminess, while adding a touch of citrus to balance the flavors. If you’re more of a red wine enthusiast, a light-bodied Pinot Noir with delicate fruit notes won’t overpower the cheese, while a bold, aged Cabernet Sauvignon can enhance the sharper, earthier notes in the cheese’s older varieties.
For non-alcoholic options, look no further than sparkling water. If you’re craving something more complex, try an iced tea — black tea or even a lightly infused herbal variety like chamomile or lemon balm.
In the kitchen, Le Gruyère AOP excels. “It’s really endless,” says Schilt. “I find Gruyère to be so versatile, it can be used anywhere, in any dish.”
Think melted into a luscious fondue, which is quintessential, paired with crusty bread, tiny potatoes, and crisp vegetables for dipping. Try it also in a savory tart, with caramelized onions and fresh thyme, or folded into a creamy pasta sauce that coats your noodles in velvety goodness.
Whether enjoyed on its own or as part of a well-curated dish, Le Gruyère AOP offers endless opportunities to bring a touch of Swiss elegance to your table. Its balance of flavors, combined with its adaptability and meltability, make it a cheese that both connoisseurs and casual eaters will love. Close your eyes and you just might hear those bells ringing on verdant Swiss hills.
