Emma Hofer-Louis, chief executive of Laura Chenel’s Chevre, Inc., details her mentors, inspirations and what has kept her in the cheese industry for the last 30+ years.
Emma Hofer-Louis, chief executive of Laura Chenel’s Chevre, Inc. recalls that her professional journey in the world of cheese started in France in 1993, right out of business school.
“I was an aspiring marketer and had the terrific opportunity to be part of the team who launched Coeur de Lion Camembert, which is one of France’s marketing success stories,” she says.
It was there that Hofer-Louis met her first mentor, Christine Penel, vice president of marketing.
“She not only taught me strong marketing fundamentals, but also how important it is to be a hands-on marketer: Tasting the product every week in Normandy with the fromagers, spending time on the floor deepening my understanding of the cheesemaking process, and gaining a deep understanding and respect for what made our cheese so special,” says Hofer-Louis.
That first opportunity encouraged Hofer-Louis to not just stay in the industry, but also to carry her passion for cheese to the U.S., where she moved with her husband in 1999.
After two years working at Dartmouth College, Hofer-Louise pursued her journey in the cheese world.
Q. Tell us about your trajectory in the cheese industry.
A. The early 2000s was an interesting time in the industry, with burgeoning interest in specialty cheese and the emerging need for category management. That became my focus for 10 years as marketing director for ANCO Fine Cheese — a cheese importer and distributor. There, alongside Alain Voss, I worked on offering retail partners comprehensive solutions, including selection of assortment, merchandising, and cheese education for mongers and consumers. With Alain, a second mentor of mine, I learned the value of customer service and working hand-in-hand with your customer to develop the category together.
In 2012, I joined Savencia Cheese USA, and came back to a more traditional marketing role. Facing a new challenge of reigniting consumers’ love for Alouette Spreadable Cheese, I focused on elevating the product experience.
Teaming up with the talented Steve Schalow, vice president of R&D and another mentor of mine, we paid close attention to details, such as adding toppings or injecting herbs and garlic cold into fresh cheese, so it could deliver a punch, while keeping a consistent color and flavor integrity. Showing our love and care for the product paid off, and we ultimately regained leadership in the premium spreadable category.
In 2015, still at Savencia Cheese USA, I embarked on a new journey to lead retail sales for North America, reconnecting more directly with customers, and building an engaged team to once again work side-by-side with retailers to develop the specialty cheese category.
A huge learning lesson in this role was about managing people — I focused on training, developing pride for the product and the company, and fostering collaboration within the team, an achievement still close to my heart today.
I left Savencia in March 2024 and am immensely grateful for the 30 years of experience I gained during my time there. I joined Rians-Triballat to lead their U.S. operations, in particular, their two beautiful cheesemakers with deep roots in the American artisan cheese movement — Laura Chenel and Marin French Cheese Co.
Q. What inspired you to become a part of the cheese community?
A. What is more inspiring than learning every day? The world of cheese is wide, complex and nuanced. There is always a new cheese, a new technique, a new pairing, or a new recipe to discover. That gets me started every morning!
I also find the cheese industry, in particular the specialty and artisan side of it, uniquely collaborative. Two organizations I am a part of are a perfect example of it: the American Cheese Society and the Guilde Internationale des Fromagers.
“The world of cheese is wide, complex and nuanced. There is always a new cheese, a new technique, a new pairing or a new recipe to discover. That gets me started every morning!”
Emma Hofer-Louis
Those two organizations promote dialogue, the transmission of knowledge, and collaborative networking, ultimately fueling passion and growth in the category. They are also key to attracting and keeping top talents.
This is also an industry in which I cross paths with many inspiring individuals who are not only driven by their passion for cheese, but also by the genuine desire to work toward a greater good: better food, respecting people and our planet. With the passing years, it is all the more important to me, beyond business, to have a positive impact on our communities.
That motivated my move to Laura Chenel and Marin French Cheese. At Marin French, we still operate on the same 700-acre ranch that our founder bought in 1865 with rolling hills of preserved agricultural land as far as the eye can see. This ranch is not only our home — quite literally for me — but also a testimony for what we stand for. There is nothing fussy about us, just a deep commitment to take care of our land, make the best cheese, and create some great ones along the way (we just launched Prospector Truffle, paying tribute to our founder).
PHOTO COURTESY Marin French Cheese Co.
Q. Talk about the evolution of the cheese industry since you started.
A. When I moved to the U.S. from France in 1999, shopping for good cheese was not easy. The choices were between a few good specialty cheeses that were out of budget for us students, and the industrial counterparts, which lacked quality and flavor.
Today, shopping for cheese anywhere in the country has become an exciting journey with a wide variety that rivals shopping in European markets. We’ve come a long way!
I would draw a parallel with the restaurant industry, where the farm-to-table trend has transformed eating out-of-home into a delightful treasure-hunting experience. In almost any city in the U.S., you can now find restaurants — and not just the Michelin Star ones — that serve superb ingredients and cook them with integrity and creativity.
This farm-to-table movement is a foundational piece to the emergence of artisan cheese in America, as well. For example, it was Alice Waters — owner of the famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA — who discovered Laura Chenel at a farmers market and put her on the map, quickly building the brand’s reputation among a community of like-minded chefs. The two worlds converged their love of flavor-packed, local, well-made products.
As in wine, and the Judgment of Paris in the ’70s, American cheeses are now on the world stage getting top accolades: Marin French’s Triple Crème Brie won “Best in Show” in 2005, as did Rogue River Blue in 2019, making noise all over the French news channels for it!
The boom of the category has been fueled by the emergence of a new fan base — I call them “Cheese Aficionados.” Whether consumer or cheesemonger, I am amazed by the level of knowledge those have built around cheese. Not just the varieties, but going deeper in the understanding of terroir, and of the cheesemaking itself.
The CCP (Certified Cheese Professional) certification on the professional side has given cheesemongers the tools to dig deeper and learn more. It also goes beyond knowledge; it has created a culture, bringing the industry together. It is our common responsibility, as cheese professionals, to continue to educate and inspire, bringing more consumers in every day.
That brings me to another trend. From starting essentially as an ingredient or a sidekick, cheese is now taking more of a center-stage role, especially when consumers are entertaining. Who doesn’t have a charcuterie board on the table to start the evening? And not just any board; consumers are becoming influencers and competing with creativity.
PHOTOS COURTESY LAURA CHENEL
Q. What is your favorite cheese? What are you excited about?
A. I was born on the France side of the Jura region and have a deep love for our French mountains — Jura or Alps. And not just for skiing or hiking but also for their gorgeous cheeses: Comte, Morbier or Reblochon. I was happy to find several characteristics of the latter one in our Golden Gate — I felt at home.
Now, my absolute favorite is Mont d’Or. I love its presentation, digging into it with a spoon, and the delicate impact of the spruce bark on the palate. A definite source of inspiration!
While those complex cheeses are deemed the most impressive and worthy of awards, I would argue that the simplest ones are often the most difficult to nail down. Take a plain fresh Chèvre: it’s so difficult to achieve a perfect balance between roundness and fresh tang. That is what Waters fell in love with all those years ago, and I have to agree, when you find a great cheese, you stick with it!
Q. Looking ahead, what are the biggest challenges the industry is facing?
A. As consumers continue their journey into specialty cheese, I believe it is key to fuel inspiration outside of the initial “entertaining” destination. Why not a section dedicated to cheese for breakfast, for example? Or sweet-flavored cheeses within a dessert set?
Specialty cheese can elevate the everyday palate and the “me” moment. It is key to expand from the traditional idea of how and where we enjoy cheese if we want this category to continue to grow and capture more consumers.
This also poses a challenge — or rather an opportunity: to continue investing in the deli section of the store and keep it inspiring. I was recently discussing with my industry friend, Trevor Thomas, how it’s been a key destination in grocery stores, providing an experience to the shopper.
I have been very impressed by Thomas’ training with cheesemongers and creative cheese presentation ideas. From crafting small tasting boards to the use of edible flowers, it catches the eye and encourages shoppers to wander further.
I am very excited about the future of our specialty cheese industry. There is still so much to be created and developed; however, it will be equally important to preserve the rich terroir(s) we have started to create and nurture the value chain. From the milk producers to the consumer, we need to stay dedicated to preserving our artisans and taking care of our land.
